2020 Pommard, Les Cras, Camille Giroud, Burgundy

The 2020 Pommard Les Cras offers tarry black fruit on the nose, a little reserved at first, with a touch of aniseed emerging with time. The palate is medium-bodied with a sappy entry, fine definition, and grippy with a dab of menthol towards the finish. It's quite bold and arresting, maybe just missing a bit of grace.

Drink 2024 - 2034

A much earthier, if timid, nose reluctantly offers up its aromas of plum, black raspberry, and a whiff of the Sauvage. I very much like the sense of underlying tension in the relatively refined middle-weight flavours, which possess very good mid-palate volume and good depth and persistence in the youthfully austere finale.

Drink from 2027 onward

From old vines with a north-south orientation, which is good in these hotter years. Medium-density bright purple. I like the balanced vigour of the bouquet on the cherry/raspberry cusp. The power continues on the palate, but the red fruit retains a freshness, and the whole seems better balanced to me than the Volnays. The fruit/tannin/acid balance shows all the correct ripeness levels, and the length is impressive for a village wine.