2020 Clos des Lambrays, Grand Cru, Domaine des Lambrays, Burgundy

Jacques Devauges was especially proud of the relatively low alcohol – and very low pH, apparently.

Sweet start and slightly lacking juice at this early point in its life when it tastes just a bit too heavy and tannic – especially compared with the 2021 Clos des Lambrays served alongside. But it went pretty well with the Sladesdown duck served with green asparagus, olives and cedrat. 

Drink 2027 - 2047

Produced from two large parcels of differing vine ages - one that is approximately two-thirds of the blend and is now 50 years of age and a second, smaller group of vines that are approximately 25 years of age; made with 80% whole clusters and 80% new wood.

Restrained, cool and elegant aromas are comprised of ripe poached plum, dark currant, anise, rose petal and a hint of earth. The succulent, concentrated and relatively powerful larger-scaled flavors exude evident salinity on the firm, serious, complex and beautifully persistent finale. Patience strongly suggested because while this could very likely be approached after only 7 to 8 years, it should fully repay 15 years of keeping.

Drink 2035

I tasted five of the 11 individual parcellaire cuvées – everything makes it in to the final blend except for the young vine block notes in the Morey 1er Cru. Jacques is adamant that the final wine should respect the totality of the Clos. Then we tried the blend: already, this seems to have taken on a deeper colour than any of the individual cuvees. Deep dense dark fruit, with a powerful underlying dark raspberry with some more lifted rose petal notes. Probably 85% whole bunch overall but the power of the fruit stops this taking the lead. It does underpin the whole though, especially on the palate, while there is also a crystalline limestone purity behind the sweetly ripe red berry fruit.

The 2020 Lambrays has more heart to it than most vintages I have tasted in barrel. There is a fine long finish, a little liquorice touch, a complex and ageworthy Lambrays. Delicacy with a strong tensile thread. Tannins by analysis are very significant but you don’t see them. From now on, the wine will spend a second winter in barrel each year. I toyed with not giving the wine 5 stars, to leave the new team something to aim at, but the wine merits the top classification.

Revisited in bottle, the 2020 Clos des Lambrays Grand Cru unwinds in the glass with a deep bouquet of cassis, wild berries, rose petals, sweet spices and dark chocolate. Full-bodied, layered and concentrated, it's rich and textural, with an ample core of fruit, beautifully powdery tannins and lively acids, concluding with a long, mouthwatering finish. Youthfully reserved, like many 2020s, this nonetheless stands out as the finest Clos des Lambrays of the 21st century—for now!

Drink 2030 - 2055

After over a year in bottle, the 2020 Clos des Lambrays was still somewhat impenetrable, with an inky black colour and concentrated aromas of plum and mulberry touched with wood spice, violets, and earth. The texture is dense, almost massive, yet not forbidding, and has an immensely appealing velvety edge. 2020 was the earliest vintage ever, picked from 20-26 August as compared to 23 August to 2 September in 2003). This historically hot, dry year was the first year of biodynamic viticulture.

Drink 2026 - 2080

The 2020 Clos des Lambrays Grand Cru has real intensity on the nose. It’s very well-defined with layers of black cherry and blue fruit, mineral-driven with hints of violet emerging with aeration. But this is backward and holding itself back. The palate has exquisite balance. It’s a little granular texture, lightly spiced bordering on peppery, building beautifully in the mouth to exert an insistent grip on the finish. There is a grandeur about this Grand Cru that keeps you entranced, but it will demand time in bottle.

Drink 2030 - 2060