2020 Lacoste Borie, Pauillac, Bordeaux

The 2020 Lacoste-Borie, which comes in a new label, has an attractive nose with black fruit, pencil shavings and light minty aromas that remain in the background. Fine delineation, though not powerful. The palate is medium-bodied with pliant tannins on the entry, a mixture of red and black fruit, hints of brine and cracked black pepper with an easygoing, seaweed-tinged finish that suggests this will just require a couple of years in bottle.

Drink 2024 - 2038

A succulent, charming wine, the 2020 Lacoste-Borie bursts with aromas of sweet berries, cherries, crushed mint and creamy oak, followed by a medium to full-bodied, fleshy palate. It's a blend of 56% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot and 14% Cabernet Franc, the latter amounting to the Borie family's entire production this year, as none made it into Grand-Puy-Lacoste.

This 90-hectare estate some 60 hectares of which are in production), situated in a single block on a gravel dome around the château, has long been a favourite among Bordeaux insiders. Under Emeline Borie's direction, subtle refinements have been made: more than 100 soil pits were dug to better understand the château's geology; herbicides have never been used here, but now 20 hectares are devoted to a trial of organic farming.

Since 2013, a vertical press is used; and since 2012, the new vintage goes to barrel immediately after malolactic fermentation, before being blended early in the new year. Today's wines are a touch more immediately charming and structurally polished than the Grand-Puy-Lacoste of fifteen years ago, yet they have lost none of their classic Cabernet-driven Pauillac character.

Drink 2023 - 2040

Perfumed blackcurrants and damons, a nice push of perfumed fruit on the nose, full and juicy, really alive in the glass - you really get the Cabernet Franc aspects which are so nice. Super high acidity, really searing and bright, lovely energy and lightness of touch in the glass while still having the Pauillac signature. Minerality comes across in the wet stone, and graphite edges which give the gravel terroir. Bright and supple with controlled acidity, supple and plush tannins, really plush and high-toned, fresh fruit. Feels well worked, focused and sleek - easy drinking.

Drink 2024 - 2036