2020 St Joseph, Pierre Gonon, Rhône

100% Syrah. Cask sample tasted at the domaine.

Bright and pure with bags of energy. Minerally freshness but the palate rich and silky with a spicy element that persists. Tannins present but finely honed. Dense but almost weightless with that minerally freshness and feel. Less power than 2019, in which the alcohol was almost 1% higher.

Drink 2025 - 2035

Still in barrels at the time of my visit, Jean Gonon blended a representative sample for me to review. The 2020 Saint Joseph is classic Gonon, with a complex nose of crushed stone, violets, cherries and blueberries; a palate that's medium to full-bodied, concentrated and tannic yet silky; and a vibrant and long finish.

Drink 2023 - 2035

A classic expression of Saint-Joseph—fruit melded with black olive—this has body but is light in tannin, while the acidity is low but balanced. It is an elegant, juicy, very drinkable vintage with moderate alcohol, lower than the 2019. The wine had just been transferred to tank post-élevage at the time of tasting, so it was showing quite closed; it may well improve and show better after bottling.

Drink 2022 - 2030

Showing consistently and giving some perspective regarding 2021, the 2020 Saint Joseph is gorgeously rich and textured, with medium to full-bodied aromas and flavours of ripe black fruits, roasted herbs, and earth floral nuances. Despite its wealth of fruit, there’s plenty of structure here, and if anything, it’s showing more structure and tannic grip today. It deserves 3-4 years and will evolve gracefully over the following decade with ease. This is a brilliant Saint Joseph.

Drink 2027 - 2038

The refined 2020 Saint-Joseph hits the palate with great concentration and a juicy core of red fruits. Pencil shavings, crushed violets and cedar add more layers. Maintaining spot-on balance and neatly framed by polished tannins, the 2020 Saint-Joseph is classic Gonon. It is less ripe and flamboyant than the 2018 or 2019, but offers more substance than the 2021, concludes with lifting energy on the savoury finish.

Drink 2026 - 2038

Deep magenta. Displays expansive aromas of black raspberry, cherry liqueur, candied flowers and olive, along with exotic spice and smoky mineral nuances. Weighty as well as energetic in style, offering sappy, mineral-drenched black and blue fruit preserves, floral pastille flavors and hints of star anise and allspice. Finishes juicy, lively and wonderfully long, with resonating spice and floral notes and youthfully gripping tannins.

Drink 2028 - 2038

From organically grown grapes.

St. Joseph is often declared to be a second-tier appellation in the Northern Rhone, but here’s proof that it can play in the region's first league. This has an incredibly deep nose of ripe blackberries, other forest berries and smoke. On the barely full-bodied palate, it is simultaneously rich, focused and extremely complex, with very graceful fine tannins and stacks of stony minerality at the breathtakingly fresh finish.

Drink or hold