2020 Volnay, En Champans, 1er Cru, Domaine de Montille, Burgundy

50% whole bunch, as Etienne and Brian, think that this vineyard doesn’t work with more than that. Vibrant fresh purple in colour, slightly reductive nose, temporary, soon blows off to reveal another succulent deep red fruit, a good thread of mineral acidity, strictly concentrated fruit at the finish.

Closure: Diam

The 2020 Volnay Les Champans 1er Cru has a perfumed, floral nose with traces of iris and violet infusing the blueberry and raspberry fruit, the 50% whole cluster neatly enmeshed. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannins, fresh and lively with a keen line of acidity, leading to a structured, quasi-Pommard, a little chalky with fine persistency.

Drink 2024 - 2042

From a .97 ha holding; 40% whole clusters.

Here, too, moderate reduction renders the nose difficult to assess. The relatively delicate and refined middle-weight flavours possess no lack of punch, which carries over to the youthfully austere, complex, and sneaky long finish, which is quite tightly wound, so patience is advised.

Drink from 2032 onward