2020 Clos de Vougeot, Grand Cru, Domaine Denis Mortet, Burgundy

From a .32 ha parcel of vines just below those of Château de la Tour in the lower middle of the slope.

Once again, plenty of floral influence is present on the ripe and fresh nose of wild red and dark berries, along with plenty of earth and humus nuances. There is excellent volume and richness to the powerful and sappy larger-scaled flavours that also possess a beguiling texture on the lingering and balanced finale that is less austere than usual. Even so, note well that this, too, is constructed to repay longer-term cellaring, so at least some patience is advised.

Drink from 2035 onward

The 2020 Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru matured with 50% whole bunch and 20% new oak from parcels below Château de la Tour on more gravelly soils. This has a broody bouquet that is more bashful and closed now compared to Mortet’s other cuvées. That will open in time. The palate is medium-bodied with sappy red fruit, quite saline, with white and black pepper on the strict but compelling finish. Sophisticated, but it will need time.

Drink 2027 - 2055

50% new wood and 50% whole bunch. This has a really fine elegant bouquet for Clos Vougeot, not the only one this year, but an outstanding example. Builds beautifully on the palate, this has really great potential. The fruit goes on and on. Such class while keeping all the structure. Not happy to have had to spit this out. Finish still with me minutes later.