2019 Corton-Charlemagne, Grand Cru, Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey, Burgundy

From vines owned from 2003 onwards. Now all Languettes high and south-east-facing), and it yields much less wine than of old. The Morey vines have been sold. Picked 14 September. One 200-litre barrel blocked, 350-litre not. Barrel sample, not yet racked.

More savour on the nose than many Corton-Charlemagnes. Very focused and tight compared with most. Lots of acidity.

Drink 2026 - 2042

The proportions have changed again, and in 2019 are 80% from Les Languettes in Aloxe and 20% from En Charlemagne in Pernand.

An attractively fresh, if much more reticent nose only grudgingly gives up its aromas of newly sliced green apple, lemon-lime, anise and, again, discreet wood influence. There is fine density to the suave and powerful yet reasonably well-detailed larger-scaled flavours that also conclude in a citrusy, bone-dry and compact finale that is less austere than it usually is. While this does need to add depth, it should do that if a few years of cellaring are allowed, and it's built to reward a decade-plus.

Drink from 2031 onward.

Clear, bright colour. The reduction is modest, and the wine is very stylish. This is really quite saline on the palate with rich and ripe white fruit. The various elements harmonise very nicely, to emerge as one of the better-balanced wines, without excess richness.

Drink 2025 - 2032