2019 Nicolas-Jay, L'Ensemble, Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley, Oregon, USA

Jean-Nicolas Méo is, quite rightly, both proud and excited by his special barrel selection from the eight vineyards that Nicolas-Jay work with. His rather wonderful analogy about making this wine is, ‘In Oregon I get to paint with at least eight colours, even more with the different characteristics of each block. In Burgundy I only get to paint with one colour at a time’.

His 2019 L’Ensemble is just gorgeous with its musky perfume and tempting nose of juicy yet fine red and black fruit. Notes of raspberries and sandalwood combine with a twist of tart Christmas orange and a sweet cranberry lift. The tannins here are super fine; they have plenty of initial friction but they so are pin-point in shape that they then seamlessly dissipate, in a moderating, gentle way that catches you unawares.  There is an extremely fine purity on the palate here and a refined minerality, revealing the volcanic nature of this wine from its red, Jory soils. Overall, this is beautifully fresh, harmonious, elegant, and downright delicious. Quite the masterpiece.

Catriona Felstead MW, Senior Buyer, Berry Bros. & Rudd (Nov 2021)