2019 Gevrey-Chambertin, Les Champonnets, 1er Cru, Domaine Denis Mortet, Burgundy

This is the first wine to display any appreciable reduction; it’s enough to mask the underlying fruit completely. There is more size, weight, power and muscle to the big-bodied and equally mineral-driven flavours that firm shapes but not hard, tannic backbone on the lingering and youthfully austere finale that is both long and highly complex. Somewhat surprisingly, Mortet has tamed the natural tendency of Champonnets to give rusticity while accentuating its strong points. In sum, this is impressive and also worth checking out.

Drink 2031