2019 St Joseph, Pierre Gonon, Rhône

100% Syrah. Cask sample.

Tasted at the domaine. What an expressive nose! Brooding spice, black olive and meaty undertones with an earthy tequila-type note. A snappy and focused palate with great density and intensity of fruit. Then, black pepper and clove spice blend with ripe blackberry, which is saline and fresh. The fine tannins tickle the juicy, succulent, vibrant palate – supremely tasty and pleasurable. 

Drink 2022 - 2033

Gonon's 2019 Saint Joseph retains the typical floral signature on the nose, but it is more dark-fruited than usual, with notes of black cherries, blackberries and even black olives. It's medium to full-bodied, the first vintage recorded over 14% alcohol, according to Jean Gonon 14.2%). Concentrated, rich and velvety in feel, it boasts a long, gently chewy finish and should age well.

Drink 2025 - 2038

Deeply aromatic with violets and Kalamata olives, it's wildly resinous with a touch of black cherry. Medium- to full-bodied, it's more concentrated and fresher than most Saint-Josephs this year. It has the classic depth and texture of Gonon's Saint Joseph, thick and alive, like a jungle. Very long finish with a floral lift. A big vintage here - increasingly the norm. Better freshness and lower alcohol heat than most in 2019.

Drink 2023 - 2030

Saturated ruby. A hugely perfumed bouquet evokes spice- and smoke-accented black and blue fruits, pungent flowers, potpourri and olive paste, and a liquorice nuance that emerges as the wine stretches out. It offers deeply concentrated blueberry, cherry liqueur, candied violet, and fruitcake flavours that smoothly balance depth and energy thanks to a core of smoky minerality. Finishes smoky, broad and extremely long, with mounting tannins and resonating florality.

Drink 2027 - 2037

I am totally hooked by the flamboyance of the 2019 Saint Joseph. Vinified with around 90% whole clusters and checking in at 14.2% alcohol, the 2019 bursts with the pronounced intensity of black cherry, blackberry, raspberry, crushed violets, liquorice and earthy gradations. Discrete pencil shaving nuances add a ferrous dimension. Showing slightly grippier tannins compared to the more polished 2020, I suspect the 2019 will need a few more years to come around. Hitting the palate with a juicy core of ripe black fruits, all balanced by refreshing acidity, this is a sexy Saint Joseph that will stand the test of time.

Drink 2028 - 2037

Moving to the flagship, the 2019 Saint Joseph got a big “wow” in my notes, and this is the finest wine I’ve tasted from these hard-working brothers. Awesome red and black fruits, ground pepper, and hints of game and meatiness all emerge from the glass, and it’s medium to full-bodied on the palate, with perfect balance, silky tannins, and one heck of a finish. This brilliant Saint Joseph is one of the top wines in the appellation and can be enjoyed any time over the coming 15 years.

Drink 2022 - 2037