2019 Domaine de l'A, Côtes de Castillon, Bordeaux

Very deep purple-black in color, the 2019 Domaine de l'A offers up wonderfully intense scents of baked blackberries, stewed plums and boysenberries with hints of cedar chest, red roses, mocha and clove oil plus a waft of black truffles. The medium to full-bodied palate has a great core of muscular fruit, framed by ripe, rounded grape tannins and notably chewy oak tannins. It has seamless freshness and a long finish delivering plenty of savory/spicy layers. The oak is poking through at this nascent stage, but it should come around beautifully by the time it's bottled and may well warrant a higher score.

Stéphane and Christiane Derenoncourt's 2019 Domaine de l'A is a real standout. A touch more Franc than in the past helps convey an added kick of brightness and energy that works so well in balancing the wine's natural richness. The 2019 is classy and elegant, with tremendous purity of fruit. The 2019 is terrific, but it also is going to need a few years in bottle to be at its best.

Drink 2026 - 2039

Textured and alive, this is great stuff from Stéphane Derenoncourt's home estate. Linear and direct on the palate, still with some limestone slate austerity coming through the rich, softly spiced blackcurrant and red cherry fruit. This has definition and drive with a satisfying combination of fruit, fragrance from massal selection Cabernet Franc, 25% of the blend with 60% Merlot, 15% Cabernet Sauvignon) and minerality. It still feels restrained and held back a little at the moment, although the more you taste the more nuances appear.

Drink 2024 - 2034

Keep +1 years or carafe for 1 hour.

Dark ruby in colour, with sappy liquorice root, gently spiced raspberry and blackberry puree with peony and violet flowers. An enticingly creamy texture on the opening beats, then it rises upwards and closes inwards as the limestone impact kicks in. Lovely stuff. Good length also. 2nd year of organic conversion, classification in 2020.

Drink 2023 - 2032

From one of my favourite estates in the Castillon region, the 2019 Domaine De L'A reveals a medium ruby hue as well as a brilliant array of red and black currants, tobacco leaf, sandalwood, and loamy earth, with that classic, savoury minerality that seems to always show from this appellation. Medium to full-bodied on the palate, it's seamless, flawlessly balanced, has gorgeous tannins, and a great finish. As I've written about past vintages, don't miss it. It will evolve for over two decades.

Drink 2022 - 2042

The 2019 Domaine de l'A opens in the glass with aromas of sweet blackberries, cassis, spices, flowers and nicely integrated oak. Medium to full-bodied, pure and vibrant, with a fleshy texture and controlled power, it’s a seamless, serious wine that illustrates the estate’s upward trajectory. This is a complete wine that can age beautifully over the next decade.

Created in 1999 by Christine and Stéphane Derenoncourt, two talented winemakers and consultants, Domaine de l’A is located in the commune of Sainte-Colombe, close to Saint-Émilion. The couple now farms 12 hectares of clay-limestone and Molasses du Fronsadais soils, with a density of 6,500 vines per hectare. The estate is managed in accordance with the precepts of biodynamic and organic agriculture without seeking certification. The wines are aromatic, fleshy and seamless, with remarkable ageing potential, delivering terrific quality at a modest price.

Drink 2024 - 2030