2019 Chambertin, Grand Cru, Domaine Denis Mortet, Burgundy

From a single .15 ha parcel of 50+ year old vines located near the southern end of the appellation.

Moderate wood influence can be found in the exceptionally floral-infused and super-fresh aromas of red currant, dark raspberry, smoked game, iron-infused earth, and a hint of anise. There is simply outstanding complexity to the racy and muscular cuts-like-a-knife and imposingly scaled flavours that conclude in a hugely long, powerful and youthfully austere finish. Like all of Mortet's grands crus, this is a structured, built-to-age wine requiring extended patience to mellow the considerable tannic spine. Superb quality here.

Drink from 2039 onward

The 2019 Chambertin Grand Cru comes from just 0.15 hectares of 60-year-old vines, matured entirely in new oak. It has an impressive nose with fine precision. The whole bunch element is more visible here, lending an almost Dujac-like personality. Touches of loam and brown leaves percolate through the intense black fruit, which seems to gain intensity with aeration.

The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannins and a little more lactic in texture compared to the Mazis, which, going back and forth from one to the other, has more detail and delineation. There are hints of Earl Grey tea towards the finish and an exceptionally long aftertaste. It is a wonderful Chambertin, though I prefer the Mazis-Chambertin this year.

Drink 2024 - 2048

Just a little touch of coconut. Dense purple, royal energy backed by good acidity, dense deep red fruit with a couple of blacker notes. The wood is currently giving it a stricter framework, which the second half of the elevage will sort out. There is great tension and a very long finish.