2019 Clos de la Roche, Grand Cru, Domaine Dujac, Burgundy

Rich, seductive purple, with a gorgeously ripely perfumed nose, almost takes it a step closer to Clos St Denis than it would normally be. This has depth in the middle but is softer than usual, albeit with a good grip, too. Soft, oaky finish. If this Clos de la Roche tightens up, it will merit a higher score, but if the softer aspect prevails, the current rating will likely be accurate.

Tasted blind at the Burgfest tasting.

The 2019 Clos de la Roche Grand Cru is understated on the nose, with predominately red berry fruit, wild hedgerow, orange zest and crushed stone. I appreciate the succinct manner this unfurls, with hints of Earl Grey emerging with time. The palate is quite peppery on the entry, with just a little chewiness—perhaps not as nuanced as the aromatics. Very concentrated, especially toward the slightly viscous finish, this flirts with exoticism rather than grabbing it with both hands. I wonder if there is a tiny bit of TCA here—it’s minuscule if there is.

Drink 2027 - 2046

More deeply pitched aromas are comprised by notes of poached plum, newly turned earth and the sauvage. The exceptionally fresh large-scaled flavors possess a suave mid-palate texture while displaying outstanding depth on the sneaky long and very firm finale. This moderately austere effort has the potential to be superb though one will have to be prepared to wait for enjoy it at its peak.

Drink 2036+

The 2019 Clos de la Roche Grand Cru is also a very charming wine, though it will demand a bit more patience than the Clos Saint-Denis for all that. Unwinding in the glass with aromas of dark berries, warm spices, orange rind, woodsmoke and loamy soil, it’s full-bodied, layered and muscular, with lively acids, serious concentration and rich, powdery structuring tannins.

Drink 2029 - 2065

Dujac’s Clos de la Roche holdings include parcels in the vineyard's original Clos de la Roche heart, in Monts Luisants and Les Chabiots, a total of nearly 2ha. In 2019, Dujac produced a spectacular wine that was already very aromatic, with ripe black cherry fruit, spice, and earth notes. On the palate, this wine is tannic and structured, but the texture of the tannins is silky, elegant and very refined. Marvellous.

Drink 2029 - 2049