2018 Brunello di Montalcino, Biondi-Santi, Tuscany, Italy

Cool, wet year in which the highest vineyards struggled to reach 12% potential alcohol. Stringent selection was needed. Vinified in a mix of fermenters in terms of both size and material.

Transparent garnet. Very richly autumnal on the nose – quite a cocktail of aromas! Appetising with that slightly agricultural perfume of Sangiovese. Very marked acidity on the palate at this early stage. Not nearly ready. It will need years for the fruit to build in bottle and distract from the early acidity. Very clean, refreshing finish.

Drink 2027 - 2040

The 2018 was just the second harvest under new ownership for Biondi Santi. CEO Giampiero Bertolini says that picking started late by the estate’s standards. They waited until 25 September, by which time the strong north wind had an opportunity to dry out the vineyards.

The results in the bottle are impressive: cool fragrances of juniper, coriander, pepper and liquorice root leave room for a more subtle violet expression. The palate is decidedly red fruited with pomegranate and sour cherry nuanced by herb flowers, with an underlying stony-mineral crunch. Not lacking in concentration – yet by no means robust – this is graciously weighted. Nor does it have the scratchy bite of a young Biondi Santi Brunello. Instead, tannins are fine-boned and suede-like. Racy acidity is in the driver’s seat bringing focus, linearity and a vibrancy that pops on the finish.

Drink 2026 - 2039

The 2018 Brunello di Montalcino is gorgeous, floral and finessed, wafting up with a classic Sangiovese profile blending dried rose and black cherries, complicated by dusty earth, worn leather and hints of cedar spice. This shows a beautiful ripeness of fruit, pure and lifted yet potent, with masses of red, wild berries and inner florals that cascade across a core of zesty acidity.

This finishes long and staining with regal tannins and a tart cranberry tinge that lingers on and on. Simply magnificent, the 2018 takes the perfumed character of the vintage and marries perfectly to a core of vividly intense fruit. This is entirely atypical of the vintage and the result of extreme selection that reduced production quantities by 20%.

Drink 2026 - 2036

So floral on the nose with lavender and lilac coming through clearly. Cherries and peaches with an orange undertone. Medium-bodied with firm and silky tannins that are lightly chewy. Salty undertone to the fruit and hints of cedar and black truffle. Acid-driven. Excellent energy.

Drink after 2025, but already delicious.

The 2018 Brunello Di Montalcino will be released on March 1, 2024. The color is medium red/garnet, and the nose opens to fresh aromas of orange citrus peel, dusty earth, cranberry, spices, and juniper. Medium-bodied and more linear, it lifts through the palate with fine tannins and a refreshing, mouthwatering finish. It has a great saline feel and is a savory and fresh wine. This is a Brunello I’d love to drink over the next 10 years for its accessibility and refined texture, although I imagine it will also have some real potential for cellaring.

Drink 2024 - 2040