2018 Châteauneuf-du-Pape, La Combe des Fous, Clos Saint Jean, Rhône

Opaque ruby. A powerfully scented bouquet displays mineral-accented boysenberry and Chambord scents complemented by suggestions of pungent flowers, Indian spices and incense. Intense red/blue fruit preserve, cherry cola and fruitcake flavors show superb definition and silky texture. Comes off graceful despite its depth and finishes on a repeating floral note, displaying outstanding persistence and bright, mineral lift.

Drink 2024 - 2036

The 2018 Chateauneuf du Pape La Combe des Fous features electric aromas of garrigue, exotic stone fruit, pomegranate, black cherries and perhaps even a touch of rose petals. Full-bodied and rich without being overly weighty or dense, plush and velvety on the finish yet vibrant and complex, this magnificent effort should drink well for at least a decade. From vines planted in 1905, it's approximately 60% Grenache, 20% Syrah, 10% Cinsault and 10% Vaccarèse.

The Maurel brothers went the extra mile to send me tank and barrel samples of their 2019s, so I've included those reviews here alongside the reviews of the bottled 2018s. Both years are successful here—the 2019s maybe slightly denser and more concentrated than the more elegant 2018s, but they aren't always better. This estate has become a model of consistency and excellence.

Drink 2020 - 2030

The star of the show in 2018 is the 2018 Châteauneuf Du Pape La Combe Des Fous, which has an incredible mix of complexity, power, and elegance that’s something to behold. Sporting a deep purple/plum color as well as a killer bouquet of blackcurrants, lavender, peppery garrigue, graphite, and white chocolate, it hits the palate with full-bodied richness, a seamless, multi-dimensional texture, incredible tannins, and a gorgeous finish. This is as good as 2018 gets, and while it’s already impossible to resist, it’s going to evolve for 15 years.

Drink 2020 - 2035

Strong ruby, purple reflections, broader ochre lightening on the rim. Multi-faceted bouquet with fine noble wood savouriness, black olive and tapenade notes, hint of liquorice and candied orange zest. Substantial, complex, sweet texture, black cherry, ripe plum and fig, well-integrated tannins and mineral. The finish is very long and it has great ageing potential.