2018 Bonnes Mares, Grand Cru, Domaine Denis Mortet, Burgundy

From a .35 ha parcel with vines in the terres blanches portion.

A very ripe nose exhibits fresh aromas of plum, spice, earth and a whiff of port-like nuances trimmed in enough wood to point out. The full-bodied, muscular and powerful flavours possess excellent mid-palate density while delivering very fine length on the more complex finale. This is built-to-age and will need it.

Drink 2035

Wafting from the glass with a beautiful bouquet of cherries, raspberries, cinnamon and potpourri, Mortet's 2018 Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru is medium to full-bodied, elegant and beautifully complete, its velvety attack segueing into a lively and concentrated mid-palate, concluding with a long and perfumed finish. I suspect it will be even better after another winter in barrel.

This comes from the upper part of the vineyard on white soil. Dense purple, with a sumptuous nose, not at all cooked. This has a depth of flavour and a succulence while retaining its white earth character. Maybe something a touch dry in the tannins. This is a really good wine but does not quite match up to the majesty of Arnaud’s stable from the top end of Gevrey-Chambertin.

The 2018 Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru includes 30% whole bunch with 80% new oak. It has a backward, bashful bouquet gradually opens to reveal blackberry, boysenberry and light cassis aromas and wonderful mineralité and focus. The palate is medium-bodied, with crunchy red currant and cranberry fruit at the entry. Linear for a Bonnes-Mares, with outstanding tension and energy on the finish. Stunning.

Drink 2024 - 2050

This remarkable Bonnes Mares holding is divided into two parcels, having been acquired relatively recently from Domaine Newman. It wasn’t easy to make something this well balanced in 2018 in the Grand Cru, but Arnaud Mortet has done it in his stride. Elegant, sappy, and showing the effortless concentration of well-established old vines, it has added freshness and forest floor notes from 70% whole bunches.

Drink 2028 - 2039