2018 Meursault, Clos de la Barre, Domaine des Comtes Lafon, Burgundy

‘The high yields saved us from unbalanced wines’, explained Dominique Lafon. Barrel sample.

Seductively creamy and mealy. Rich and creamy, quite soft but full of lovely citrus richness without fat. Generous and still fresh on the citrusy finish. Generous and caressing. Mouth-watering and moreish.

Drink 2022 - 2027

The 2018 Meursault Clos de la Barre wafts from the glass with scents of waxy citrus rind, fresh pear, mandarin oil, and warm pastry. It is followed by a medium to full-bodied, attractively deep, and complete palate. This is the raciest, most structured, and most serious of the domaine's communal-level bottlings, and it will be well worth seeking out.

Faint lime tint to the colour. Very clean and chiselled nose, the Lafon precision at play. Then the length. All in white fruit, soft texture, some liquorice notes, medium density but persistent.

Drink 2026 - 2030

There is a phenolic note think olive or nut oil elements) to the notably ripe white and yellow orchard fruit that includes hints of apricot, white peach and passion fruit that are trimmed in just enough wood to notice. There is good verve to the delicious medium-bodied flavours that possess fine mid-palate density that is offset by the firm acid spine supporting the chiselled, linear and bone-dry finale. This is more tightly wound than it usually is and should reward mid-term cellaring.

Drink 2025+

The 2018 Meursault Clos-de-la-Barre is a clear step up from the Désirée, showing much more delineation and more Meursault-like in character, with touches of hazelnut infusing the red apple and light peeled peach skin aromas. The oak here seems to be better integrated. The palate is well balanced with a fine bead of acidity and touches of orange peel and apricot. Fresh and focused, culminating in a persistent spicy finish. Excellent.

Drink 2023 - 2038

Dominique Lafon's home vineyard is always one of the most complete expressions of Meursault and the 2018 is no exception. Picked in three stages according to the age of the vines between August 26th and September 3rd, this is focused, weighty and very lightly wooded, with lovely harmony, depth and complexity and a racy, palate-cleansing finish.

Drink 2021 - 2028