2017 Charmes-Chambertin, Grand Cru, Domaine Duroché, Burgundy

From a .41 ha parcel situated in Charmes proper; vinified with 20% whole clusters.

A more elegant nose, if less spicy, features a relatively high-toned array of essences of red cherry, pomegranate, and soft forest floor nuances. The seductive and velvet-textured flavours possess slightly better mid-palate density while delivering even better length on the bitter cherry pit-inflected finish. I like the potential here, as this could be excellent.

Drink from 2029 onward

The 2017 Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru has a nicely detailed, focused nose, with a subtle herbaceous element from the stems lending an extra dimension. The palate is medium-bodied, fleshy, and generous, with a lovely texture. It is easygoing and open for business, but there is still decent depth, and the new oak is nicely integrated. I probably underrated this from barrel.

Drink 2024 - 2045

Brisk, deep purple with some bright raspberry fruit and a stem or two. Reductive. Superb intensity, good acidity, plenty of fruit weight, very long indeed. If this shakes off its reduction, it will be superb and earn a higher score.

The 2017 Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru displays notes of ripe cherries, plums and pomegranate, framed by delicate top notes of warm spices and peonies. Medium to full-bodied, rich and layered on the palate, it's fleshy and enveloping, with fine depth at the core, succulent acids and a perfumed finish.

Drink 2024 - 2045

The Durochés' 0.4ha in Charmes-Chambertin are split between five different parcels, which is too common in the grands crus. But what a charming wine they have produced, all summer berry, rose petal perfume, lacy tannins, bright minerality, and a fine, focused finish.

Drink 2024 - 2029