2017 Grands-Echézeaux, Grand Cru, Georges Noëllat, Burgundy

An extravagant bouquet of blackberries, plums, incense, rose petals and wood smoke introduces the 2017 Grands Echezeaux Grand Cru, a full-bodied, ample and multidimensional wine that's nicely concentrated and complete, its structuring tannins generously cloaked in juicy fruit, its finish long and precise. This year, Cheurlin vinified the two parts of his Grands Echezeaux separately but concluded—predictably, we agreed—that the whole was more interesting than the sum of the parts.

The 2017 Grands Echézeaux Grand Cru has a very pure, intense bouquet of dark cherries, blackberry, crushed stone and violet aromas, actually more understated but more sophisticated than the Echézeaux. The palate is medium-bodied with succulent tannin, a fine bead of acidity, sorbet-fresh black fruit and a vivacious, tensile finish. This is a superb Grands-Echézeaux from winemaker Maxime Cheurlin.

Drink 2023 - 2040

A deft application of wood frames the spicy if restrained aromas of plum and various dark berries along with hints of exotic tea and sandalwood. The rich, intense and muscular larger-scaled flavors possess excellent punch while the detailed and linear finish is a bit lean and dry. It could be the effects of the recent bottling but it would be fair to say that the balance isn't quite as well dialed in.

Drink from 2032 onward.

Made from a 0.4ha parcel of very old vines and aged like the domaine's Échézeaux in 100% new wood, this is another triumph from an extravagantly talented young winemaker. It's weighty and serious, with plenty of underlying fruit power, scented oak and a smooth, caressing finish. One of the best expressions of the site in 2017.

Drink 2022 - 2032