2017 Latricières-Chambertin, Grand Cru, Domaine Duroché, Burgundy

From a .28 ha parcel, vinified with 20% whole clusters.

A more elegant, cooler, and more restrained nose hesitantly gives up its array of plum, violet, lavender, spice, and freshly turned earth scents. The even stonier medium-weight plus flavours have excellent punch and detail, culminating in a chiselled, youthfully austere, and very serious finish. This will require at least some patience as it's quite firm.

Drink from 2032 onward

They are at the northern end, abutting Chambertin and so further from the combe. Four barrels this year, a record! The clear, bright purple has a lovely intensity here without being exaggerated, with minerals behind. Then, a wealth of red and black fruit that is properly long. Dark, lush red fruit, ripe dark cherries.

The 2017 Latricières-Chambertin Grand Cru has quite a "bullish" nose with blackberry, wild hedgerow, clove, and autumn leaf aromas that stride out of the glass. The palate is medium-bodied with a fresh line of acidity and touches of orange rind tincturing the red berry fruit. This gently builds in the mouth to a fairly intense red berry, autumn leaf, and tobacco-tinged finish that lingers for 45 seconds. Excellent.

Drink 2023 - 2042

The 2017 Latricières-Chambertin Grand Cru is developing beautifully in the cellar, gaining in texture and dimension as I predicted it would. Bursting with notes of sweet berry fruit, cassis, dark chocolate and forest floor, it's medium to full-bodied, supple and enveloping, with lively acids, melting tannins and—like many of the best 2017 red Burgundies—concentration and amplitude that far transcends what was apparent in barrel. There's still considerable upside here; and even though this is very charming today, it merits patience.

Drink 2025 - 2050