2017 Barolo, Monvigliero, Comm. G.B. Burlotto, Piedmont, Italy

Fabio Alessandria is one of the most talented wine producers at present in Barolo. If Monvigliero is recognised for its particular elegance, the interpretation at GB Burlotto adds depth and consistency to it. The harvest, which in Monvigliero is rather early, 'has been brought forward almost one month in 2017,' according to Alessandria. 'We finished picking the Nebbiolo on 31 September.' In this vintage he preferred selected yeast over indigenous yeast due to the heat and the potential alcohol. He fermented the wine in Slavonian oak vessels without destemming and let the malolactic conversion occur spontaneously, still in oak. It has a crystalline purity on the nose of peony, orange peel and red berries, embellished with cinnamon and rhubarb flavoured boiled sweets. Fleshy and earthy strawberry flavours are joined by lavish, almost silky, tannins of great volume on the mid-palate, and lifted acidity that will keep it going strong for decades. Drink 2021-2040.