2017 Clos de la Roche, Cuvée Vieilles Vignes, Grand Cru, Domaine Ponsot, Burgundy

The 2017 Clos de la Roche Vieilles Vignes Grand Cru does not quite deliver the same complexity as its peers, coming across as earthier and more backward, though it does develop a very attractive mineral element. It frays at the edges of the glass. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannins, fine acidity, clean, red berry fruit and a touch of black pepper, but it lacks a bit of complexity and feels a little forced and pruny on the finish.

Drink 2024 - 2042

The aggregate size of this holding is a whopping 3.4 ha, and Ponsot is by far the largest holder in Clos de la Roche.

A spicy, cool and gorgeously complex nose reflects notes of both red and dark currant, earth and a whiff of leather. There is excellent richness to the concentrated and beautifully textured broad-shouldered flavours that possess focused power and a subtle minerality that really comes up on the youthfully austere and strikingly long finish. As good as the Chapelle is, there is just another dimension present here.

Drink 2037

Tasted separately from the 150th anniversary.

Though intentionally, the first vintage of the new order had no change from previous methods. Glowing pink and purple in colour. A really supple fruit comes out on the nose, seeming rather attractive and quite forward, so it is pleasing to have much more grip on the palate, even a little bitterness. It has high-toned cherries, a raspberry note, some tannins, and good acidity. It is accessible already, yet up to standard for Grand Cru. It is very persistent, perfumed and balanced.

The Ponsots’ 3.5ha holdings here are divided between the Monts Luisants and Clos de la Roche grand cru climats, producing a fine, elegant, floral cuvée with no new oak, plenty of precision and freshness and a sweet core of raspberry and wild strawberry fruit.

Drink 2025 - 2032

The 2017 Clos de la Roche Grand Cru Cuvée Vieilles Vignes is also showing very well from bottle, unfurling in the glass with a deep bouquet of sweet red berries, plums and cassis, complemented by sweet soil tones and lifted top notes of orange rind and peonies. Full-bodied, layered and multidimensional, it's deep and concentrated, its velvety tannins and succulent acids cloaked in an ample core of fruit. This is a brilliant wine from Domaine Ponsot.

Drink 2027 - 2060