2017 Ao-Yun, Shangri-La, China

Inky purple, this is extremely concentrated, reflecting the thick skins that develop at this high altitude site. A little different in style from the other vintages in this vertical, with a touch of smoky reduction that accentuates the fresh herbs, smoked black tea, raspberry leaf and sour cherry along with Cabernet-dominant blueberry and blackcurrant fruit. Sculpted, with mouthwatering oyster shell and slate minerality on the finish.

This feels like a mountain wine, and is excellent quality, from a cooler vintage overall. Harvest September 19 Xidang Village, 2,100m altitude) through to November 22 Adong Village, 2,600 altitude), the longest to date with over two months between first and last picking. A touch of Merlot in the blend for the first time, bringing the number of grape varieties in the blend to five, 36% new oak.

Drink 2024 - 2038

Although a relatively cool and wet growing season, the 2017 vintage benefited from a warm August with less cloud cover, and around 60% of the crop from 314 blocks of 28 hectares worked by 120 families from 4 different villages was deemed of Ao Yun quality. The precision of the viticulture is certainly paying dividends, providing winemaker Maxence Dulou with increasingly healthy, high-quality fruit.

The 2017 Ao Yun has a very deep ruby appearance. It is extremely young on the nose and palate, with dark brooding cassis, black cherry and black plum fruit that is both perfumed and gently herbaceous hints of green bell pepper and blackcurrant leaf). There is marked new oak clove, toast, smoke) that marries impressively with the ripe core of fruit. On the palate, the wine has robust but refined, coating tannins, well-integrated high alcohol, some lifting acidity and a tremendous core of ripe, powerful fruit that harmonizes well with the savory new oak. This is undeniably long and polished and has that Ao Yun puissance that characterizes all vintages to date.

2017 shares with 2015 an impressive integration of ripe Cabernet-dominated fruit with robust structure, but the use of Syrah, Petit Verdot and Merlot has given a greater fruitiness and touch of spice to the 2017. This is certainly a vintage that is very young at present and will easily age for 15 years or more. Best approached from 2021 at the earliest.

Drink 2021 - 2032

Another step up in quality from 2016. Lots of blackberry and blueberry aromas with plenty of richness and ripeness on the nose. Spicy notes, too with dried chili, sweet tobacco and some pine. Very aromatic. Full-bodied and round with creamy, ripe tannins and lots of ripe fruit. Yet, it remains fresh and vivid. A little bit of merlot in the blend for the first time Mostly cabernet sauvignon with cabernet franc, syrah, petit verdot and merlot. Delicious now, but will age nicely. It’s more approachable than the 2016 now. Superb length here. Give it time in the bottle. Better after 2025. 3,000 cases made.