2017 Volnay, Les Santenots, 1er Cru, Domaine Y. Clerget, Burgundy

Clerget's Volnay Les Santenots 1er Cru is one of the more overtly ripe wines in the lineup. Kirsch, red raspberries, mint and wildflowers are all given an extra kick of raciness in the Santenots, a wine that really stands out for its nuance, suppleness and flat-out deliciousness.

Thibaud Clerget's 2017s are very pretty wines that build on the successes of the 2015s and 2016s, although the vintage's more modest structure and depth are very much in evidence. Harvest began on September 3 and lasted five days. The wines are generally made with fully destemmed fruit, although the Clos Vougeot is done with about 50% whole clusters. 

The fruit saw 5-10 days of cold soak and 20-25 days on the skins. Élevage was 11-12 months in oak. I tasted all of the 2017s from tank before bottling. Thibaud Clerget remains one of his generation's most bright and promising growers. What he has accomplished at a young age is already quite remarkable.

From a .66 ha holding in Santenots Dessous.

This is also relatively deeply pitched though the fruit is not quite as fresh as there is a roasted plum and earth character to it. Otherwise, there is better energy on the palate of the medium-bodied flavours that evidence a taut muscularity that also characterizes the sneaky long finish. While the nose may well recover, I prefer to remain conservative.

Drink from 2025 onward

The 2017 Volnay 1er Cru Les Santenots is terrific, with a ripe, medium to full-bodied, concentrated style that picks up more and more freshness and vibrancy with air. Red and black fruits, leafy herbs, liquorice, and floral notes all define the aromatics, and it has velvety tannins, plenty of mid-palate depth, and outstanding length. It’s drinking nicely today, with good complexity, yet should easily evolve for another 15 years on its balance and concentration.

Drink 2023 - 2038