2017 Champagne Fleury, Cepages Blancs, Brut Nature

Unusually, there is 10% of Pinot Blanc in this blend, alongside 90% Chardonnay. Pinot Blanc was used here long before the creation of the Fleury Notes Blanches. The wine was 100% fermented in wood, and saw seven years on lees. There’s a lovely, complex note of pear, quince, ripe lemon, honey, wax and white flowers; you can also discern some almond notes, thanks to the lees ageing. The palate has a refreshing lemon-and-orange bitterness to it, alongside wet stone and saline notes. There’s good tension, and elegant precision.

Berry Bros. & Rudd