2017 Chassagne-Montrachet, Les Caillerets, 1er Cru, Lamy-Caillat, Burgundy

A decidedly cool and very reserved nose reluctantly reveals its elegant and spicy array of freshly sliced apple, pear and a hint of lavender. Here too the medium-bodied flavors possess very good volume along with excellent minerality and drive on the focused, intense and strikingly persistent finish. Like the Champ Gains, this needs to develop more depth but once again, the underlying material appears to be up to the challenge.

Drink 2029

I tasted the 2017 Chassagne-Montrachet Les Caillerets 1er Cru twice within a fortnight, on the second occasion served blind. It is turning into a very serious white Burgundy, as I expected from barrel. The very delineated, quite assertive bouquet reveals an intriguing licorice note after 10 minutes in the glass.

There is a touch of struck match, but it is very subtle and does not obscure the terroir expression. There is clearly good weight on the palate and a killer line of acidity. This brims with tension, offering fleeting glimpses of pineapple and grilled walnut and fanning out wonderfully on the finish. Superb. Drink 2021-2040

Unwinding in the glass with notes of Anjou pear, spring flowers, blanched almonds, citrus zest and white peach, the 2017 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Caillerets is full-bodied, deep and incisive, with a layered but tight-knit core that's built around racy acids and chalky dry extract, concluding with a long, searingly mineral finish. This might be the finest wine produced at Domaine Lamy-Caillat to date.

Drink 2027-2055