2017 Tokaji, Essencia, Royal Tokaji Wine Company, Hungary

The 2017 Tokaji Essencia is a production of just 4,770 bottles, the largest ever by some margin (see other notes for comparison). It contains 557 g/l residual sugar and 10.4 g/l acidity. This has a beautifully defined bouquet with crème brûlée, elderflower, punnets of strawberry, quince and marmalade. The palate is unctuous as always, but you do notice the countervailing acidity, even though it is lower compared to other vintages. There is just a scintilla of bitterness amongst the layers of honeyed fruit that keeps this on its toes. Very long, very refined and extraordinarily pure, this is a supremely gifted latest release of Essencia. Heavenly.

A great vintage in Tokaj for making aszú wines. Plentiful as well as high in quality. The first year using barrel as well as demijohn was trialled for Essencia – making up a third of the blend. TA 10.4 g/l, RS 557 g/l. Bottled in 2022, 4,770 bottles.

Golden orange in colour. The nose is explosive and powerful, youthful with notes of yuzu, dried apricot, candied citrus and quince paste. The palate has a deep honeysuckle, sultana and acacia profile, layered with tinned apricot and candied blood-orange peel. The texture is unctuous and generous, but steely acidity gives a racy balance. With air this opens up, with a full array of stem ginger, marmalade and lighter dried lime. Spicy and complete, with a very long finish. From spoon, this is even more succulent, ripe and full, making it very luxurious and dense.