2017 Brunello di Montalcino, Ugolaia, Lisini, Tuscany, Italy
- Red
- Dry
- Full Bodied
- Sangiovese
- Walter Speller
- 18/20
- Eric Guido
- 93/100
- James Suckling
- 93/100
- Michaela Morris
- 95/100
Description
This prized single vineyard has Lisini’s oldest vines, naturally low yielding giving powerful Sangiovese from the mineral-laden iron-rich soils. A strict selection of the best fruit is further emphasized in the cantina, revealing the heights of the 2017 vintage. This was a hot year, counterbalanced by the site’s altitude of 500 metres and nearby forest.
The wine has undergone 48 months in large, 40hl Pauchis botti. The trophy of the 2017 vintage, this is at the very pinnacle of the region and illustrative of the resilience of great terroir and Lisini’s ultra-classical winemaking. It needs a little time.
Drink 2030 - 2060
Berry Bros. & Rudd
Critics reviews
Lustrous, deep ruby with orange tinges. Minerally and brooding on the nose and still quite closed. Lots of suave yet tangy fruit. A little bit massive right now but hugely promising with firm but super-refined tannins. Long, layered and sappy finish. Stunning, but not ready by far.
Drink 2022 - 2036
Dark woodland berries, pine and crushed rocks form an understated bouquet. The 2017 Brunello di Montalcino Ugolaia is soft and round with a tart wave of ripe raspberry and mineral tones that penetrate deeply as zesty acidity works to maintain balance. Orange and exotic spice notes, along with gritty tannins, add cheek-puckering tension as the 2017 finishes long and stains with a lavender tinge. This is nicely balanced for the year and has excellent tannin management, which isn't often the case from the 2017 vintage.
Drink 2025 - 2033
Full-bodied with ripe and dried cherries, spiced plums, chocolate and blueberries, supported by polished tannins. Well-integrated spice and dried flowers, too. It is ripe and expansive, with a soft and mellow texture that makes it very approachable and satisfying.
Drink or hold
Lisini’s single-vineyard selection is its usual exotic self in 2017. It opens with a heady mix of incense, juniper, pressed lilac and lavender. There's also that polished wood nuance which I associate with the wine finishing in chestnut cask for six months. Even more dense than the estate’s annata Brunello, the hearty palate presents flavours of myrtle and currants offset by an appetising inner saline core. This boasts gusto and chew, and those sizeable tannins demand another year in the bottle but are admirably lush. Definitely one of the vintage’s successes.
Drink 2024 - 2034