2017 Gevrey-Chambertin, Clos St Jacques, 1er Cru, Domaine Armand Rousseau, Burgundy

They have been waiting for 10 years to replant but can’t bring themselves to uproot the old vines. Still couldn’t bring themselves to replant this year when they saw the grapes. 80–90% new oak.

This is prettily fragrant with red cherry entwined with something more stony. So beautiful on the nose. How can fermented Pinot grapes produce an aroma like this? This is so refined and full of emotion – vibrant and addictive. This is charming beyond Charmes. Very, very fine texture and perfect freshness to complete a perfect whole.

Drink 2027 - 2037

Here, the wood treatment is equally subtle on the restrained nose, displaying fresh and cool red currant, wet stone, tea, and forest floor aromas. Like the Ruchottes, the mouthfeel of the middle-weight flavours is quite sleek and ultra-intense while flashing plenty of minerality on the strikingly well-detailed finish that displays focused power and superb length. This is an exercise in harmony and grace, and while it should be approachable after only 6 to 8 years, it should age effortlessly for several decades.

Drink from 2032 onward

Fine bright crimson purple with class and some charm. There is a welcome freshness to this wine and a sense of precision. It is not quite the length of Bruno Clair’s Clos St-Jacques. It has more red fruit and a little acidity, strikingly fine-boned.

The 2017 Gevrey-Chambertin Clos Saint-Jacques 1er Cru has a bright and youthful nose. Fine delineation with exuberant dark berry fruit, this still needs more bottle age to subsume the oak. Wonderful redcurrant, cranberry notes develop, with orange blossom hints. The palate is medium-bodied with finely chiselled tannins and exquisite balance, yet it clams up toward the finish. Huge potential, but it needs time in bottle.

Drink 2028 - 2048

Domaine Rousseau owns one-third of the clos, with most of it in the sunniest and warmest spot against the wall. This combines impressive depth and structure with the freshness that you always get in the best wines from this renowned premier cru. Aged in 70% new wood, this has the concentration and texture to age impressively in bottle.

Drink 2026 - 2035