2017 Clos de Vougeot, Grand Cru, Domaine Denis Mortet, Burgundy

The 2017 Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru includes 30% whole bunches this year and matures in 75% new oak. It has a very pure, almost candied bouquet with strawberry tart, raspberry preserve, and pressed rose petal aromas neatly entwined with the new wood. The palate is medium-bodied with smooth tannin, orange pith, and brown spices infusing the layers of red fruit. Maybe it just misses a little personality compared to some of Mortet’s other 2017s, but it is still very well-balanced and stylish.

Drink 2021 - 2038

From a .32 ha parcel of vines just below those of Château de la Tour in the lower middle of the slope, 30% whole clusters.

Moderate wood frames ripe, fresh, and cool notes of red and dark currant, plum, and earth and leather wisps. There is at once very good richness but also fine delineation to the solidly powerful middle-weight flavours that possess good muscle on the youthfully austere, firm, serious, beautifully complex and persistent finale. Good stuff.

Drink from 2032 onward

Rich dark purple stems are apparent on the nose, along with dark fruit. This absolutely sings on the palate. It is quite high-toned, with gorgeous, flamboyant, rich red cherry fruit and a fine weight of fruit behind. More Mortet than Clos de Vougeot.

Located just below Château de la Tour in what Arnaud Mortet calls 'the best part of the lower part of the Clos', the domaine's parcel runs to 0.35ha. Made with 30% stems and 70% new oak, it's very much a clay-derived style with plenty of texture, smooth tannins and layers of sweet, sensuous red berry fruit.

Drink 2025 - 2030