2017 Clos de la Roche, Grand Cru, Domaine Dujac, Burgundy

85% stems. They have 1.95 ha here 4.8 acres). Five blocks from Mont-Luisants across to Les Chabiots, average age 50 years. Barrel sample.

Rich and ripe in its pure, inviting fruit, but here the stems show more, although they also reflect the character of the vineyard—a little minty note. There’s a lightness of touch even with the intensity of a grand cru, lifted by that stemmy freshness. Tannins are chalky and layered, refined but youthfully dry. Very long. 

Drink 2027 - 2040

This is also markedly floral in character with additional breadth from the impressively pure combination of red cherry, currant, leather, a whiff of the Sauvage, and a touch of oak. The beautifully energetic and detailed flavours are much finer than usual, thanks mostly to the ultra-fine grain of the tannins supporting the austere, serious and compact finish. This is a Dujac CdlR of refinement rather than one of imposing size; indeed, it’s almost a bit light, but even so, it is clearly constructed for the medium to longer.

Drink 2032+

The 2017 Clos de la Roche Grand Cru shows some charry oak barrel on the nose, just a slight hickory scent that feels out of place. It becomes smokier with aeration. The palate is medium-bodied with a lot of stem addition that dominates the terroir expression and fruit at the moment. It is well-defined and well-crafted, and it may ultimately turn into a brilliant Clos de la Roche, but that depends on how those stems are assimilated.

Drink 2024 - 2036

Dujac’s 2017 Clos de la Roche Grand Cru is more reserved than the Clos Saint-Denis, unwinding in the glass with scents of red berries, plums, orange rind, cinnamon, peonies and sweet soil tones. On the palate, the wine is medium to full-bodied, serious and layered, with muscular structure, lively acids and a long, perfumed finish. While this remains a comparatively accessible, finesse-driven Clos de la Roche, at least a decade’s patience will be required to see this begin to realize its potential.

Drink 2027 - 2065

Clear mid crimson colour. The bouquet shows a significant use of stems with crushed strawberry notes. The perfume grows on me. Wild strawberries in abundance. Delicious, ripe, elegant and long.

The average age of the Seysses’ 1.95ha holdings in the Clos de la Roche is slightly older than those of neighbouring Clos St-Denis. Using fruit from five main parcels, it’s a very complete, self-confident wine with good density and concentration, sappy, spicy undertones, fine-grained fruit and tannins, and a very long, tapering finish.

Drink 2027 - 2035