2016 Riesling, Eiswein, Kiedrich Gräfenberg, Robert Weil, Rheingau, Germany
- White
- Luscious
- Full Bodied
- Riesling
- Michael Schmidt
- 18.5/20
- David Schildknecht
- 94/100
- James Suckling
- 96/100
- Stephan Reinhardt
- 98/100
Description
Harvested on January 7, this displays an Eiswein-typical aromatic aura of sugar-glazed, candied fruits mingled with high-toned fruit distillates. On the custardy-rich yet buoyant palate, the impression is of a pineapple-studded, quince jelly-slathered lemon meringue, generating a productive tension of bright citricity with confitured and candied fruits. The finish is formidably penetrating and persistent, clean, clear and vibrant, with lemon, pineapple and candied white currant to the fore.
Amazingly, there is such purity and focused brightness on display from fruit that hung out, exposed to the elements, for so long. This will certainly be exciting to follow and may well prove exceedingly long-lived, though the inherently capricious behaviour of Eiswein should always serve as something of a warning (which is also what I intend with my intentionally conservative quantitative “drink by” estimate).
Drink 2018 - 2050
David Schildknecht, Vinous.com (July 2018)
Critics reviews
Butterscotch, hazelnuts with caramel coating and ripe sweet mango are just some of the manifold aromas this Eiswein harbours. Global warming has had a profound influence on the character of Eiswein in general, as a higher ripeness of grapes seems to have moved them closer to Beerenauslesen.
The extremely rich texture of the Gräfenberg appears to reflect that development, but on the other hand it also exhibits a sound measure of animating acidity, which brings it back into traditional Eiswein territory and banishes any trepidations of the sticky and cloying characteristics often met in ice wine made from other varieties.
Drink 2017 - 2037
Harvested on January 7, this displays an Eiswein-typical aromatic aura of sugar-glazed, candied fruits mingled with high-toned fruit distillates. On the custardy-rich yet buoyant palate, the impression is of a pineapple-studded, quince jelly-slathered lemon meringue, generating a productive tension of bright citricity with confitured and candied fruits. The finish is formidably penetrating and persistent, clean, clear and vibrant, with lemon, pineapple and candied white currant to the fore.
Amazingly, there is such purity and focused brightness on display from fruit that hung out, exposed to the elements, for so long. This will certainly be exciting to follow and may well prove exceedingly long-lived, though the inherently capricious behaviour of Eiswein should always serve as something of a warning which is also what I intend with my intentionally conservative quantitative “drink by” estimate).
Drink 2018 - 2050
The intense brulée character makes this stand out from the other nobly sweet 2016s from Robert Weil. Massive power and vivid acidity make this pack a serious punch at the long finish. An ideal sweet wine for desserts with caramel and/or chocolate.
Drink through 2045
Picked on January 7, the 2016 Rheingau Riesling Kiedrich Gräfenberg Eiswein is super precise and spicy on the concentrated and aromatic nose where pineapple and some ethereal, spicy aromas are displayed. The wine is rich, round and elegant on the palate, very sweet but also piquant and pure, with very fine tannins and a long, vibrant finish. This is a truly great Eiswein with mind-blowing precision and sensual intensity. Total production: 900 litres.
Drink 2018 - 2080