2016 Abreu Vineyards, Thorevilos, Napa Valley, California, USA

Another perfect wine is the 2016 Thorevilos, and my notes on this beauty were laced with expletives. Full-bodied, mammoth-sized aromas and flavours of cassis, crushed flowers, dark chocolate, rare meat, and Asia spices all emerge from the glass. With incredible mid-palate depth, building tannins, and a seamless texture, it has flawless integration of its fruit, tannins, and acidity, no hard edges, and that rare mix of power and elegance. It’s already hard to resist yet will benefit from 4 - 5 years of bottle age and keep for 20 - 30 years or more.

Drink 2024 - 2054

This vineyard lies east of the St Helena AVA, but it isn't high enough in elevation to be considered part of the Howell Mountain AVA. Don't let the Napa Valley AVA fool you—this vineyard, now rechristened as Ecotone, is a top site, with lots of rock and white soils derived from volcanic ash. The 2016 Thorevilos Proprietary Red features scents of pine needles and rosemary accenting mixed berries and cassis, plus darker notions of chocolate and French roast. Full-bodied, rich and velvety in texture, it finishes long, smooth and savoury, adding notes of black olives and earth.

Drink 2023 - 2040

The 2016 Thorevilos has developed into a very sexy, racy wine. I don't remember a young Thorevilos being this approachable. Rose petals, mint, sage, dried flowers and mint are some of the many notes that open up with a bit of time in the glass. This is such a gorgeous and totally compelling wine, in a word: superb. 

It's always fascinating to sit down with Brad Grimes at Abreu and taste through the entire range because of the diversity of sites in the portfolio and the ability to taste three vintages of each wine, something that is rare in Napa Valley. I've said this before, but I really get the sense that the wines are moving more and more towards finesse while retaining all of the natural richness that is the essence of what Napa Valley is about. As always, Brad Grimes is one of Napa Valley's most intuitive winemakers. His interaction with a vintage is like what you might see with a jazz musician, which is to say supremely flexible and responsive.

The wines are magnificent, especially the 2017s, which are among the unqualified successes of the year. Readers should note that the 2018 is the last Thorevilos, as David Abreu's lease on that property expired. While it is always a bit sad to see a piece of history come to an end, change can also be invigorating. I have no doubt that will be the case here.

Drink 2022 - 2041

Phenomenal aromas of blackberries, fresh lavender, orange peel and hints of asphalt. Walnut shell, too. Full-bodied, firm and super structured with wonderful, chewy tannins and purity of fruit at the end. A joy to taste, even drink now, but needs time to come around. 

Try after 2023