2014 Sassicaia, Tenuta San Guido, Bolgheri Sassicaia, Tuscany, Italy

It was a difficult vintage that required more green harvest than normal and leaf plucking around the fruit in June because of disease pressure. 85% Cabernet Sauvignon, 15% Cabernet Franc. Fermented in tank with indigenous yeasts. 11-15 days' vatting longer than usual). Aged 24 months in French oak. Bottled in the last week.

I thought owner Priscilla Incisa Della Rocchetta and importer Armit were slightly defensive about this vintage – pre-empting suggestions that it was a poor vintage. But I don't think they needed to be. Deep garnet. Smoky, dark and restrained on the nose. There is lots of cassis and a lightly savoury/meaty Italianate quality. It's rounded and just a little chewy. It is very approachable on the palate but not very expressive on the nose. Lively, elegant and long. Firm but not resistant tannins, finely textured. Rich fruit on the finish. Moderate length. Very fresh.

Coming back to this after tasting the 2002 from Magnum the winemaker thought it was a good comparison to show the way a vintage similar to 2014 had aged), this seemed refined and elegant. Juicy and still dry on the finish. Very mouth-watering and makes you want to drink more. It may be a less powerful style than in some years, but a significant achievement in 2014 in an attractive, balanced style. 

Drink 2019 - 2030

A pretty and fresh red with berry and cherry character. Hints of walnut. Medium body, fine tannins and a crisp finish. Fine and delicate. Lighter than past vintages.

Drink now

This is my official review of the 2014 Bolgheri Sassicaia after being graciously invited to the estate for various barrel samples spanning back several years. I have watched the evolution of this wine closely and am impressed by how its real quality is diametrically opposed to the poor expectations of this difficult vintage. The nose is redolent of bright fruit and blackberry. Spice, tar, and leather appear subtly at the back.

The wine gained considerable weight each year I came back to taste it, and this vintage was bottled earlier than average, precisely to give it more time to unwind and relax in the small confines of the bottle. This is a solid effort, for sure, and the wine is a stunning example of what it takes to make great wine, even when weather conditions are not in your favour.

Drink 2018 - 2030

Poured from Magnum

This is just starting to get into its stride. From a cool year, with a late start to spring and an early end to summer, which generally produced lighter, earlier drinking wines, Sassicaia 2014 nonetheless rises above the noise with a fresh and juicy expression of fragrant dried fruits and moreish blackberries with spicy, meaty and balsamic touches. It displays a streak of blackcurrant coulis and an aromatic note of toasted fenugreek seed on the long, gentle finish. Perhaps lacks some complexity and concentration compared to more esteemed vintages, but don't be fooled into thinking this is anything other than very good.

Drink 2023 - 2043