2014 Château Branaire-Ducru, St Julien, Bordeaux

Mid crimson. A touch less ripe than the Beychevelle but more graphite than leafy. Excellent balance between profound, dark fruit, smooth, compact tannins and fresh acidity. Medium weight and elegant already. 

Drink 2022 - 2032

As soon as Patrick Maroteaux arrived, he created the second wine Duluc, named after the family who owned Branaire in 1855 and who built the current château. The first vintage was in 1988 they started leaving serious amounts out of the blend for the first wine in 1987, but it wasn't commercialised at the time) and this is the current vintage on sale, as they hold it back from en primeur. 

The nose is a little subdued, but it opens very prettily and holds itself well through the glass, clear balance, touches of black spice, subtle cinnamon and pepper, takes its time to open but it gets there, revealing black fruits, cassis and hawthorn bush. It is good, but more abrupt in its finish than the 2016.

Drink 2021 - 2033

The 2014 Branaire Ducru has a slightly uncouth bouquet compared to its peers: blackberry, blueberry, oyster shell and just a splash of cedar. It does not quite deliver the complexity of Beychevelle or Gruaud Larose. The palate is medium-bodied with a smooth velvety texture, moderate acidity, pure black cherry and raspberry fruit. It is a seductive Saint Julien but at the moment it articulates more the winemaking than the terroir, consequently it does not provide the same engagement as its peers. Not showy, but certainly well crafted. There is more to come with bottle maturation. Tasted blind at the annual Southwold tasting.

Drink 2020 - 2032

I was disappointed not be able to taste the 2015 from this estate, but the 2014 Branaire-Ducru showed well from a bottle purchased locally. Revealing a deep ruby/plum colour and forward, sexy notes of black cherries, plums, leather, dried tobacco leaves and cedarwood, it offers impressive depth and density in the vintage, beautiful balance, and a rich, layered textured that has it already drinking nicely. It can be drunk anytime over the coming 20 years.

Drink 2018 - 2038

The 2014 Branaire Ducru is soft, polished and super-inviting. Succulent red cherry, plum, lavender, spice and mint give the wine its attractive, open-knit personality, while silky tannins add to an overall impression of sensuality. The 2014 should drink well with minimal cellaring. Today, it is among the most accessible of the Saint-Juliens.

Drink 2020 - 2044