2012 Champagne Philipponnat, Clos des Goisses, Juste, Rosé, Extra Brut

In the past, I've been almost tempted to categorise this as white champagne, not pink. Still, this blend of white wine and rosé de saignée no maceration – they don't want tannin) is slightly darker than usual, so very pale pink instead of somewhat pinkish white. 68% Pinot Noir, 32% Chardonnay. All base wine was fermented in oak. No malo. Dosage 4.5 g/l. The first vintage of this cuvée was 1999, and it's made every three years or so. 2009 was the last one. Fewer than 3,000 bottles made.

Very dense and deep-flavoured, yet this tastes seriously fresh – a combination of the intensity of the terroir and the high natural acidity unmitigated by malolactic conversion.

Drink 2022 - 2034

Disgorged: March 2022

The 2012 Extra-Brut Clos des Goisses Juste Rosé is a wild, exotic wine. Kirsch, white pepper, flowers, mint and cranberry, lend a gorgeous air of exoticism. As always, the Rosé is light in body, gracious and all finesse. The blend is 68% Pinot Noir and 32% Chardonnay. This is the first release made with a blend of a Blanc de Noirs base, with the ‘still red’ portion 18%) coming from a saignée. Time in the glass brings out the breadth and natural texture of the year. This is a gorgeous Rosé from Philipponat.

Drink 2022 - 2030