2012 Bonnes Mares, Grand Cru, Domaine Georges Roumier, Burgundy

25% new oak. ‘Terres rouges’ is very close to the northern limit, with Morey. ‘Terres blanches’ is above the path that dissects the Bonnes Mares. Roumier has three parcels from the far north to the far south.

More lifted than the Terres Rouges. Very slight reduction but lots of animal and black-fruit notes. Quite rich and plush. Great texture. Lots of chew on the end – very ambitious. A bit hard on the end. 

Drink 2022 - 2035

After the perplexing 2011, the 2012 Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru restores order – an exemplary wine. The bouquet is still backward, attesting that this Grand Cru deserves a decade in bottle, yet the oak is beautifully assimilated and the terroir really comes through. The palate is knitted together by filigree tannin that almost disguises the intensity of this wine, but the sustained finish leaves you in no doubt that you are in the presence of one of Christophe Roumier's finest recent vintages. Just be patient.

Drink 2022 - 2055

From several parcels totalling 1.5 ha that are roughly divided between .90 ha of terres rouges and .60 ha of terres blanches, the latter of which has the slightly older vines.

A markedly floral nose exhibits plenty of spice and earth elements that add breadth to the purple fruit-infused nose. There is an excellent size, weight, and power to the big-bodied, intense, and concentrated flavours, which possess copious amounts of dry extract that impart a seductive texture and buffers the very firm tannic spine on the hugely long finish. This, too, is an overtly robust yet impeccably well-balanced wine that should also age for years; indeed, it will absolutely require it.

Drink from 2032 onward