2012 Vosne-Romanée, Aux Malconsorts, 1er Cru, Domaine Dujac, Burgundy

It is relatively light in colour and is starting to show a touch of brick red. There is a hint of smoky reduction, even though it has been carafed, and this reduction emphasises the oak impact a little. This is such a great demonstration of a wine unfurling across the vintages. The balance of red fruit and a more savoury/sous-bois undergrowth) character is starting to change, but they are still evenly paced. There’s a real heady sweetness to the aroma, too.

The texture still has something to get your teeth into, even with the supple smoothness of the tannins. It’s still al dente rather than melted. Extremely moreish with more of that savoury mushroom flavour on the very end. You could drink this now, but there’s more complexity to come. Not as long as the 2013, it seems.

Drink 2019 - 2032

From a 1.57 ha parcel.

This is completely different from the Beaux Monts, particularly in terms of size and weight, as there is a real muscle to the impressively concentrated and ripe medium-bodied plus flavours that culminate in a hugely long finish that coats the palate with dry extract. The supporting tannins are also markedly firmer, and it’s clear that it will take around 15 years to realise its full and considerable potential completely, yet it should be approachable after 10 years or so. In a word, impressive.

Drink 2027+

The 2012 Vosne-Romanée Aux Malconsorts 1er Cru appears to be enduring an awkward adolescent phase. The aromatics feel a little disjointed, the fruit tucked away somewhere else, leaving tealeaf, bay leaf and nagging vegetal notes in their place - atypical for the style of this vintage. Alex Seysses told me that they had some reduction issues with this wine, possibly from the use of SO2 in the vineyard as they converted to organic, that dissipated but then returned.

The palate is much better and, I suspect, augurs for what is to come: filigree tannin, precise, mineral-driven, plenty of fresh and vibrant red fruit, impressive tension and vivacity on the pretty and pure finish. If you own bottles, I recommend cellaring for another three or four years, as I am sure the aromatics will return after this “dumb phase.”

Drink 2023 - 2038

It is structured with innate power and depth, firm tannins and great depth of flavours.

Drink 2020 - 2028