2010 Châteauneuf-du-Pape Rouge, Château Rayas, Rhône

I tasted three different ingredients from Rayas's trademark ancient foudres. According to Emmanuel Reynaud, the three orientations are very complementary.

Coeur de Rayas - From 25- to 60-year-old vines, this is very aromatic, almost pine-flavoured. Great freshness and minerality. Shot through with sinews and muscles – very much made for the long term, even though the fruit should allow the drinker to approach it in less than 10 years.

Coucher de Soleil de Rayas – West-facing vines. Again a bit reduced but with lots of finesse, fine tannins and density here. Strong, assertive personality grabs your attention.

Levant de Soleil de Rayas – East-facing vines. The least tough of these three, a bit reduced. Very rich and round. Vibrant and glowing. Very Grenache.

Drink 2018 - 2034

The three component parts of the 2010 Rayas Chateauneuf du Pape show it to be a deeply colored vintage with terrific fruit intensity of licorice, raspberries and sweet, jammy cherries. Medium to full-bodied and ripe with 15+% natural alcohol and sweet, soft tannins, this ethereal 2010 is reminiscent of the 2005 although the tannins in the 2010 are more silky.

Vivid ruby. An explosively perfumed bouquet displays red and dark berry preserves, potpourri, liquorice and smoky minerals. Broad and fleshy, offering deeply concentrated black raspberry and bitter cherry flavours and a strong note of floral pastilles. Chewy tannins give grip to a powerful, alluringly sweet, endless finish. Shows as much density as I can recall from a young Rayas and is clearly built for the long haul.

Showing more finesse and elegance than the Pignan, yet still with plenty of density and concentration, the 2010 Châteauneuf Du Pape Reserve is a sensational effort from this estate that has a kaleidoscope-like array of framboise, darker cherries, sappy flowers, garrigue, and spice. Opening up beautifully with time in the glass as well, it hits the palate with full-bodied richness, a layered, multi-dimensional texture, silky tannins, and a great finish. Reminding me slightly of the 1990, it is heavenly today and will be heavenly in another 15+ years as well.

Drink 2022 - 2038