2009 Blanc Fumé de Pouilly, Silex, Domaine Didier Dagueneau, Loire

Intensely aromatic – straight up the nose! Almost raw it’s so wild and unformed. Not yet anything like fully developed. I’d wait for quite a while. All angular and flailing about.

From an enclave just outside the cuverie in Saint Andelain, the Dagueneau 2009 Blanc Fumé de Pouilly Silex delivers an almost inordinate diversity of floral, herbal, citrus predominately grapefruit), and pit-fruit predominately nectarine) elements, with the bitterness of fruit pits, smoky pungency of red currant and crushed stone, as well as notes of shrimp shell reduction and iodine inflecting a long, bittersweet, yet at the same time vibrant, buoyant finish. This silken textured seducer should gain with time in bottle and be worth following for ten or a dozen years.