2005 Volnay, Les Santenots, 1er Cru, Maison Leroy, Burgundy

Lalou has an extraordinary impressionistic magnified photograph illustrating just how sick these vines were when she took them over but the wine is a fine testament to the curative powers of biodynamics. Amazing deep purple. Extremely opulent, definitively Côte de Beaune, at its creamiest, richest, velvetiest. Round, almost treacly it’s so thick. Dry finish. This wine is not at all hot but it’s the first in this range to seem super-ripe.

A very densely fruited, ripe and highly complex black fruit nose that evidences notes of anise, cinnamon and a subtle underbrush nuance that can also be found on the very rich and ultra pure flavors that are delicious, focused and wonderfully fresh, wrapped in a concentrated and impressively detailed finish that saturates the palate. Wow, this is a clear step up from the Narbantons and this will need at least 15 years to be at its best. Drink 2017

Deep ruby-red. Smoky black fruits and dark chocolate on the nose. Chewy and impressively concentrated, with strong, perfectly integrated acids framing and carrying the rich flavors of smoky black fruits. Some superripe notes emerge with aeration. But although this wine is distinctly outsized for its 13.1% alcohol, there's nothing exaggerated about it. Really spreads out to coat the palate on the back end, which features lush, buffered tannins and some nutty oak tones.