2005 Châteauneuf-du-Pape Rouge, Château Rayas, Rhône

Pale ruby is not that different from the colour of the Frontonio 2018 El Jardín de las Iguales Garnacha. Rich, sweet, and satisfying—really very sweet and gorgeous. Firm finish, and this is already very charming without any intrusive tannins, just very light ones. Good freshness. It has great charm and subtlety. Both herbs and spice. So neat! 

Drink 2018 - 2035

The 2005 Château Rayas Châteauneuf-du-Pape Reserve exhibits a slightly transparent, ruby-red colour and knockout aromatics of garrigue, kirsch, raspberries, and smoke. With air, some black tea leaves and liquorice notes follow. The wine is beautifully perfumed, complex and nuanced. In the mouth, it’s full-bodied with sweet fruit, a soft, supple texture and a blockbuster finish. While I think this clearly surpasses the ’04 a fantastic wine in its own right), I’m not sure it hits the heights of the ’89, ’90 or ’95. Time will tell, though, and this gorgeous Rayas should drink beautifully over the next 20 years.

Drink 2010 - 2030

I could not resist retasting the 2005 Rayas Chateauneuf du Pape. Until the 2007 is in bottle, the 2005 is clearly the greatest wine made at this estate since the 1995. Made from 100% Grenache, it boasts an unusually for Rayas) dark ruby/purple-tinged colour and an exceptionally sweet bouquet of black cherry jam, truffles, incense, liquorice, and raspberries.

Full-bodied with a stunningly rich, concentrated mouthfeel, an explosive mid-palate, and a finish that lasts more than a minute, it is a wine of superb power and intensity, admirably displaying the terroir’s hallmark delicacy and ethereal nature. This utterly profound Chateauneuf du Pape should drink beautifully for 25+ years.

Drink 2008 - 2033

The 2005 Châteauneuf-du-Pape has the unenviable task of following the 1990 and does so with some chutzpah. A cornucopia of scents: brambly red fruit, Kalamata olives, black pepper, Seville orange marmalade and fresh-picked fennel. Whereas the 1990 has reached its aromatic peak, you feel this has more in reserve. The palate is medium-bodied with pliant tannins and a satin-like texture with fine depth. Seamless, harmonious and sensual, there is a trace of rosemary and sage towards its precise finish. You could almost describe this as “clinical,” yet that would be a disservice to its personality and charm.

Drink 2023 - 2055