2004 Petrus, Pomerol, Bordeaux

Remarkably red-fruited still on the nose with just a little bit of exotic spice and sweetness: the epitome of luxury and decadence yet it also smells so youthful and vibrant. Firm and dry on the palate, less yielding than I expected from the aroma. Much more tertiary character – undergrowth. Chewy finish, but it's warm and satisfying and still has a way to go. 

Drink 2016 - 2032

The 2004 Petrus is not one of the strongest wines of the decade, though it remains a fine Pomerol. The bouquet does not hold back with splendid fruit concentration: floral top notes with pressed violets and shaved black truffles, traits I observed in previous bottles. The palate is gracefully moving into its secondary phase with touches of tobacco and warm gravel infusing the red fruit. However, there is a conservative element to this Petrus that opts to play it safe. You do not feel as if it will evolve into something more, which begs the question of whether you should continue sharing it. I see no harm in pulling bottles now; larger formats later.

Drink 2020 - 2032

Deep medium red. Subtly complex aromas of mulberry, red cherry, toffee, caramel, iron and flowers. A bit narrow on entry, then expands in the middle palate without any loss of focus. A very firmly built, vibrant and classy 2004 with a tight mineral core and ineffable spice character. This is by far the most backward 2004 in the Moueix portfolio. Finishes with terrific aromatic persistence and subtlety. This will surely evolve in the direction of toffee and truffle and may ultimately merit an even higher rating.

The dark plum/ruby-tinged 2004 Petrus possesses high acidity as well as copious amounts of sweet cherries and black currants intermixed with hints of cola, earth, and truffles. Deep, medium-bodied, concentrated, ripe flavours are excruciatingly firm and tannic. This backward, structured, muscular Pomerol requires a decade of cellaring, but it possesses the potential to be the longest-lived wine of the vintage, lasting 30-40 years.

Anticipated maturity: 2017 - 2035