2003 Petrus, Pomerol, Bordeaux

Dark crimson. This unusually dense and heavy wine had a note of cloves that put me off. It was clearly very different from the rest of the line-up – very rich with some oak influence in evidence. Thick and flashy, it tasted so sweet there was a suggestion of cocoa powder. I usually respond to Petrus's opulence but not in this wine which seemed the most obviously 2003-like of the line-up and lacked refreshment. It was certainly very opulent and flattering but had a sour, drying finish.

The 2003 Petrus was born in a difficult vintage for Pomerol, although its blue clay,a.k.a “smectite” soils, probably gave Christian Moueix and Jean-Claude Berrouet a slight advantage given its propensity to retain moisture and prevent hydric stress. That said, I would not mark it down as a top-tier Petrus. After a timid opening, it settles down with attractive mulberry, wild strawberry, and clove scents. It is quite rich but not overpowering.

I would argue that it is not as detailed as other vintages. The palate is very well balanced and surprisingly well defined considering the heat of that summer. Rich and opulent for Petrus maybe the most opulent that Jean-Claude Berrouet ever made), and yet it retains a sense of symmetry and freshness on the finish that I think is unique to this Pomerol. Who says there is no such thing as terroir?

Drink 2018 - 2032

Deep, healthy red-ruby colour. Multidimensional aromas of mulberry, plum, smoked meat, leather and mocha are at once vibrant and slightly wild. Then sweet, densely packed and powerful, and showing little or no sign of the excesses of the vintage. This has a wonderfully tactile texture and great breadth on the back end. The tannins are sweet but firm and serious, giving the wine an outstanding grip-even a touch of youthful austerity-for a 2003 from the right bank. This really coats the mouth. I'd keep my hands off this wine for at least seven or eight years.

An early September harvest in this hot year produced a 2003 that has reached full maturity. It offers notes of roasted coffee, melted chocolate, figs and black cherry jam. There are some rustic tannins in the finish, but this expansive, rich Petrus displays far more intensity and complexity than most expected given the difficulties in Pomerol in 2003. It should be consumed over the next 4-6 years.