2003 Sassicaia, Tenuta San Guido, Bolgheri Sassicaia, Tuscany, Italy

‘Big and rustic in its early stages’, said technical director Sebastiano Rosa. More herbal and perfumed and open than the 2006. Black olives – very similar to the 2003 Guidalberto in vintage characteristics. Savoury and mouthwatering on the palate. Dry, savoury length. Like a food. Very satisfying and nourishing. Tannins seem to have more grip than the 2006, less refined, less mineral. It’s more rustic and a little drier on the finish than the 06.

The 2003 Bolgheri Sassicaia is full of unexpected twists and turns. Oddly enough, this vintage offered more overall freshness and balance than the much-celebrated 2004 edition. We all know that 2003 was a very difficult year with scorching hot temperatures that broke all records. Instead of jammy flavours or overt ripeness, this wine has embraced an all-balsam aromatic profile instead.

The bouquet opens to dried cassis or red currant with eucalyptus, cola, grilled rosemary and medicinal herbs. The tannins are silky and fully integrated within the wine's thick textural richness. There are areas that feel flat and sedate, but this is an impressive effort overall that shows impressive stability considering the challenges of the growing season.

Drink 2017 - 2027

Ample, sweet and expansive, the 2003 Sassicaia offers generous notes of sweet dark fruit intermingled with notes of spices, herbs, earthiness and smoke in this wine's full-bodied, opulent expression. It is an outstanding effort for the vintage. Some cellaring is suggested, although, with air, this wine is drinking beautifully right now.

Niccolo Incisa della Rocchetta is upbeat about his 2003s. “Of course, it was a very hot, dry vintage, but under these circumstances, Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc tended to perform better than other varietals such as Merlot. I am happy with our Sassicaia’s balance, although we clearly can’t call it a classic vintage. Sassicaia is a wine that needs bottle age to show its full potential, and I am confident the 2003 will age well. Today, it reminds me most of the 1978.”

The salinity comes through clearly at this point, which gives beautiful lift and grip. I just love how Sassicaia wines can play with tannins. They start so delicate and soft and yet close in beautifully. This has more grip and youth than the 2007. The rosemary and heat-baked herbs of Tuscany stand shoulder to shoulder with a concentrated blackberry richness and a salty tang that delivers freshness. This is the magic of Bolgheri — the coastal influence and the old vines.

80% Cabernet Sauvignon and 20% Cabernet Franc.

Dark ruby-red. Appealing smoky, minerally aromas of red cherry, blackcurrant and plum, with a hint of truffle. Quite suave on entry, then smooth and fine-grained, with a good mineral lift to the decidedly sweet red fruit flavours. This broad, rich and supple wine boasts tremendous length and silky-sweet tannins. A great Sassicaia that falls roughly between the '88 and the '85 in style at a similar stage of development, although I'm not sure the new vintage will attain the heights reached by those earlier wines.

This is a special Sassicaia that shows so much richness and density. Layered and ripe fruited. Hints of vanilla and wood. Full body, round texture and intense. Showing beautiful length and intensity.

Drink or hold