2002 Barolo, Monfortino, Riserva, Giacomo Conterno, Piedmont, Italy

13 September 2005 saw a huge hailstorm damage large parts of Barolo, but saved the north Grinzane Cavour, Roddi) and parts of the south including Serralunga and Monforte d’Alba. 

But although some very good wines were made, it was already condemned as a bad vintage, hence only Roberto Massolino Vigna Rionda Riserva) and Giacomo Conterno Monfortino) made Riservas. On the other hand, neither of the two made Riservas in 2003.

Mid mature-looking ruby. Sweet, opulently perfumed herbs and hints of dried fruit and dried orange. A little spiky and very lifted acidity. Lots of energy and quite bold tannin. Perhaps a little drying on the finish. Shows breeding, but less flattering than 2005. Very slow but long and complex finish. Freshness is key. Mid weight. 

Drink 2014 - 2030

The 2002 Barolo Riserva Monfortino represents a significant turning point for Conterno. It was the first vintage in which the estate bottled Monfortino, but no Barolo Cascina Francia, a choice repeated in 2013 and 2014. It was a very cool and rainy year that I remember well, as I lived in Italy at the time. I also remember the sight of vineyards in La Morra totally decimated by hail in early September. Things were completely different over in Serralunga, however. Hail was not an issue, and the weather turned ideal in September and October, perfect for these late-ripening vineyards. 

Giovanni and Roberto Conterno were annoyed that so many in the press had declared the vintage a disaster before the harvest was even finished. And so, they decided to surprise the world with this magnificent Barolo, which was held under wraps for several years. Today, at nearly eighteen years of age, the 2002 is an infant, but it is every bit as monumental as it has always been. Readers should expect a potent, tannic Monfortino for the ages.

Drink 2022 - 2042

A dark, imposing, but sensual wine, it flows from the glass with a breathtaking array of dried roses, autumn leaves, wild cherries, plums, new leather, espresso, licorice and spices, showing phenomenal depth, richness and balance. The tension between the luxuriousness of the fruit and the austerity of the vintage is truly captivating. I have tasted the 2002 Monfortino multiple times from barrel and bottle. At times it has reminded me of what I imagine the 1971 tasted like upon release, at other times it has seemed more similar to 1978. According to Giovanni Conterno, the 2002 reminded him of the 1971.

Either way, the wine is extraordinary. The 2002 Monfortino is the result of the cold vintage that was typical of Piedmont up until the mid 1980s. In many ways, it is a throwback to wines that can't be made anymore in Piedmont. Roberto Conterno thought so highly of the 2002 Monfortino he gave the wine an extra year in barrel. And of course, there is one sad footnote.

The world lost Giovanni Conterno to cancer in 2004, but he made sure his last Monfortino was at least equal, if not better, than his most monumental wines. There is little doubt the 2002 Monfortino will soon take its place as one of the greatest Monfortinos ever made. It is the most fitting last chapter to the life of one of the world's greatest winemakers.

As always, I suggest readers who have an interest in Monfortino taste the wine as soon as possible, as it will soon head into a period of dormancy, which in this vintage may last several decades. One of my favorite vintages for current drinking is the 1970, which still looks to have another 30 years of fine drinking ahead of it!

Drink 2027 - 2052