2000 Château Lafite Rothschild, Pauillac, Bordeaux

The nose is fresh, bright, and dense. With aromas of violets, minerals, spices, cool stones, mint, dark fruits, and plum skins, this is beautiful. Very much still a baby right now, it needs much more time. This is a wine for the next generation. Finesse and elegance, truly a wine that makes you contemplate life. This is not about power, there is really nothing like it. 93% Cabernet Sauvignon. Do not even think about touching this for another ten years, 2020. 15+25+25+35. Find the wine.

A baby, still barely evolved at 21 years old, perhaps the slowest out of the block of all Five Firsts in this vintage. A high Cabernet Sauvingon year, one of the highest on record, and although you had to be patient, it's clear that the 2000 vintage deserved the plaudits it received on release. The texture is velvety, seductive, with obvious width, and it remains extremely young . I would strongly recommend opening the 2001 over this (not a vintage that I specfically tasted in this vertical, but on recent examples) or certainly the 1996. If you drink this now you are missing out on the extra layer of naunce that is undoubtedly hidden underneath, although you'll already enjoy cassis puree, savoury black fruits, elegant yet concentrated with precision, heft and finely-sculpted tannins, signature Cabernet Sauvignon and signature Lafite. The power comes slowly, expanding through the palate to show graphite, pencil shavings, cigar smoke, all with firm acidities and a fantastic grip. 46% of the overall crop went into this wine in the 2000 vintage. A brilliant example of the success at Lafite under the longtime triumvirate of then-owner Baron Éric de Rothschild, CEO Christophe Salin and estate director Charles Chevallier. Last tasted July 2020. 100% new oak.

Since I gave this wine a perfect score, I suppose some could see this as a downgrade. I found everything still there for a perfect rating, but I was just struck by how tight and backward the wine was. A blend of 93.3% Cabernet Sauvignon and the rest Merlot, the wine still has a dark ruby/purple color and an extraordinarily youthful nose of graphite, black currants, sweet, unsmoked cigar tobacco, and flowers. The wine is rich, medium to full-bodied, but has that ethereal elegance and purity that is always Lafite. I originally predicted that it would first reach maturity in 2011, but I would push that back by 5-7 years now, although it has 50-60 years of life in front of it. Owners of this beauty are probably best advised to forget it for 5 years. Tasted next to a 1996 several days after the 2000 tasting, the 1996, which is a perfect wine, was far closer to full maturity than the 2000.

The bouquet is amazingly open and forward at this stage, with a ripe black fruit character on the nose just beginning to open up and reveal savoury notes of leather, earth, and roast coffee. The texture is lush and dense, and there is plenty of body and structure to make this a wine for the long term. I visited the Château in July of 2000, and it was pouring with rain; that week, there was plenty of spraying for rot. Fortunately, it was hot and dry for the rest of the summer, and the fruit ended up healthy and ripe, although only 36% of the harvest made it into the grand vin, which was 93% Cabernet Sauvignon and 7% Merlot.

Dark ruby – same colour as Ch Margaux 2000. Very light – almost soapy – on the nose. Lots of chew and potential. Polished sinewy tanins but not nearly ready – however many bottles have already been drunk in China! Appetising but wait. Green notes at the moment. This has length and potential.