1999 Brunello di Montalcino, La Storica, Riserva, Biondi-Santi, Tuscany, Italy

The fruit for the Riserva comes exclusively from the oldest vines at the estate. Aged in Slavonian oak for three years. La Storica refers to bottlings aged in the winery cellar for later release. 1999 is considered similar in style to 2016 at the property. Mid garnet colour. Truffle and spice box are immediate on the nose, together with desiccated red fruit and balsamic. A lovely combination of freshness and decay, offering undergrowth, cigar and incense. Grippy and intense, this is ready but still has plenty of youthful vigour – in some ways it’s tighter than the 2008. Opening up with time in the glass, it is a pure, vertical wine that promises even more to come.

The 1999 vintage was a cooler year among the warmer 1997, 1998, 2000 and 2001. It's an austere year, for which there are still a lot of supporters, including me, and it represents an old generation of wines in Montalcino. Garnet in the glass, the wine shines for its cherry jelly, liquorice root and tobacco aromas, with balsamic depth and some minerality. It doesn't lack concentration, being bony with firm acidity and velvety tannins that are still rustic yet fierce. If the sternness is a signature for Biondi Santi, this would be a standard-bearer of the estate. In my opinion it will last longer, but lacks a touch of elegance.

Lovely classic Brunello with aromas of mushroom, nutmeg, mahogany, dried fruits, and hints of toffee. Pine trees. Complex. Medium-bodied with sweet fruit in the center palate and a bright and vivid finish. This has developed nicely on the palate. A late release in 2023 with only 350 bottles on the market. Do not decant because it loses its fruit. Drink now.

The 1999 Brunello Di Montalcino Riserva is expressive of integrating leather, dried cherry, red plum, and tobacco. It is medium to full-bodied, with ripe, present tannins, and although its components are integrated into its maturity, it has impressive length and concentration of fruit throughout, with kirsch, crushed flowers, and sage. It is a fantastic representation of the potential and history of the estate.