1998 Petrus, Pomerol, Bordeaux

Harvest September 21, 22 and 23. A small yield meant just 2,400 cases compared to the usual 4,000. 50% new oak.

Richly-scented like you wouldn't believe, earthy truffle, undergrowth, black olive and rosemary fill the glass as your nose hovers over it, and don't let up right through the palate, providing waves of first aroma then flavour. At 22 years old this provides apt evidence of why Petrus 1998 is a legend of 20th century wine. The vintage plays to all of Petrus' strengths; a classic Merlot year that here combines velvety soft-edged tannins that caress and cushion the abundant black cherry, blackberry and bilberry fruit. Traces of campfire, mocha and liquorice are shot through every mouthful, and this is just so good. Jean-Claude Berrouet was at the helm at this point, expertly conducting the many strands of the wine.

Drink 2020 - 2032

The 1998 Petrus goes from strength to strength as it ages. It's a perfect wine and the wine of the vintage with Le Pin and Cheval Blanc. I was lucky enough to drink some over the weekend when a friend brought a bottle to dinner. It was stunning. It's so deep and characterful yet refined and subtle. It showed aromas of wet earth, mushrooms and dark fruits. Dry black olives came out as well. Full body, firm tannins and bright acidity. Very fresh and just opening up now. Walnut and chocolate character. So youthful. 

Decant two or three hours before serving.

The greatest wine produced at this estate since the formidable duo of 1989 and 1990 is the 1998 Pétrus, a magical bottle that is a lot more complex and expressive today than was the case only a handful of years ago. Bursting with aromas of dark berries, pencil shavings, violets, liquorice and black truffle, it's full-bodied, rich and seamless, with incredible depth at the core, beautifully refined tannins and a long, resonant finish. Even though this is probably the richest, most textural wine of the vintage, the 1998 isn't quite as broad and concentrated as the 1989, but if anything, it's even more precise and delineated.

Drink 2020 - 2060

Mid crimson. Pretty luscious and gorgeous on the nose – voluptuous. Edge of graphite, scented and luscious and so rich and concentrated yet without heaviness. Mondotte v Pétrus would be a real object lesson. Pure richness and pleasure with that animal/gamey/raw meat character of fleshy right bank reds.

The 1998 Petrus is unquestionably a fabulous effort boasting a dense plum/purple colour as well as an extraordinary nose of black fruits intermixed with caramel, mocha, and vanilla. Exceptionally pure, super-concentrated, and extremely full-bodied, with admirable underlying acidity as well as sweet tannin, it reveals a superb mid-palate in addition to the luxurious richness for which this great property is known. The finish lasts for 40-45 seconds. Patience will definitely be required. Production was 2,400 cases, about 1,600 cases less than normal.

Drink 2008 - 2040

The 1998 Petrus never fails to deliver. This is a fabulous example that confirms it is a true tour de force. It has a compelling bouquet with mineral-rich black and red fruit with unerring purity. In this bottle, I notice a hint of hickory not observed previously. The palate is medium-bodied with silky smooth tannins, perfect acidity and a sense of tension that counterbalances the sheer power and ambition of this, the best Bordeaux of the vintage bar none. I was not quite moved to give this a perfect three-figure score, but it flirts with perfection.

Drink 2020 - 2060