1998 Château de Fargues, Sauternes, Bordeaux

Dark greenish gold. Rich but appetising barley-sugar nose. Kumquat fruit with a fresh bitterness on the end. Super-fresh. Bit of chewiness still. Only medium sweet. Very lively and vital. Medium bodied. And long and vibrant.

Drink 2012-2032

Pale to medium gold in color, the 1998 de Fargues simply sings of honeyed apricots, lemon curd and orange marmalade with touches of fungi, candle wax and candied ginger. The palate gives wonderful balance and depth, with very rich fruit and a racy line giving way to a long, layered finish. Yum!

Drink 2018-2035

Juice and rich fruit is more apparent in the 1998 than it was in the 1996, with waves of apricot and nectarine to sink into, spliced by a knife edge of crisp, clean zest that elevates Fargues above most others in the appellation. Grilled toffee also, but more a memory of sweetness than sweetness itself, tarte tatin and white pear. Five weeks of harvest from September 22 through to October 28. François Amirault winemaker.

Drink 2022-2034